• Wheelsmith SLS and/or Spoke Calc and/or DT Spoke Calc
  I use a variety of calculators to determine proper spoke length. I also reference my own build data.

• Wheelsmith Rim Rods
  For accurately checking rim ERD (rim diameter).

• Park TS-2 Truing Stand
  The industry standard. Mine is equipped with dial gauges to accurately check tolerances.

• Linseed Oil
  The most essential "tool" in my shop. Lubricating the spoke threads is absolutely essential in order to achieve optimal high spoke tension. Linseed oil provides the best lubrication and, in some builds, almost eliminates spoke twist, reducing the number of times a wheel needs to be stress relieved. I use a mixture of artist grade linseed oil, mixing the thin refined with the super thick stand oil. The stand oil gives more body to the mix so the oil doesn't all run off the threads. The oil not only lubes the threads, when dry it has some locking properties.

• EVT Nipple starter
  The tapered point of this simple tool easily inserts into the back of the nipple and holds the nipple by friction. The tool easily pulls free or twists off after the nipple is started on the spoke.

• Nipple Driver
  An essential tool used to quickly achieve uniform depth of thread.

• Park SW-20 Spoke Wrench
  This investment cast, machined and heat treated four sided spoke wrench is my current favorite. Fits the nipple perfectly. A four sided wrench is essential for achieving optimum high tension.

• Tensiometers
  I have a bit of a fetish for tensiometers and have four to choose from: DT, Wheel Fanatyk, FSA and Park TM-1. For builds with DT spokes I use either the DT or Wheel Fanatyk tool. For builds with Sapim spokes I use either the Wheel Fanatyk or the FSA. The Park tool is for backup.

• EVT Dishing Gauge
  This unique gauge is simple to use and very precise. It has a spring loaded plunger that is lowered to the locknut by pressing on the trigger. The T.I.G. welded Chrome-Moly tubing and pads are machined in one setup to ensure absolute parallelism.

• Competition Cycles Services Twist Resist
  The other most essential tool in my shop. I use the Twist Resist tool throughout the building process, even at lower tension, and I also stress relieve spokes by squeezing after each layer of tension is added.

  The Twist Resist is designed to grip the spoke shaft near the nipple, preventing spoke twist that can lead to unreliable wheels. The combination of this tool and linseed oil is a big help with extra-thin spokes, especially DT Revolution, and considerably reduces the need for heavy-handed spoke stressing.

• Aero Spoke Holder
  Essential for bladed spokes but nothing fancy, just standard-issue.

• Phil Wood Tenacious Oil
  I use this oil between the surface of the rim and the nipple to make the nipple easier to turn.

• Morizumi Spoke Cutter/Threader
  When I need a special spoke length I'll use this beautiful tool. Details.

Preparation and Assembly

Depending on who you talk to, wheelbuilding is part art and part science, a pleasure or a mind-numbing chore. I view wheel building as a enjoyable technical procedure artfully done.

I satisfy my need for speed when I am on the bike. My time in the workshop is more relaxed. Wheel building is not a competition so I take plenty of time on every set, and never take short cuts.

The way I build any particular wheel varies a bit but generally here's how I build, step by step:

1. Measurement of the rims and hubs. Calculation of spoke length using one or more programs and/or referencing other completed wheels.

2. Lubrication of spoke threads with linseed oil.

3. Spokes are laced. Cross patterns are symmetrical.

4. Bring the spokes and nipples to uniform depth of thread.

5. Lubrication of nipple seats/eyelets.

6. Bring the spokes to working tension, align the spokes and set the spoke heads with the spoke punch.

7. Add more tension and do some initial lateral and radial truing and dishing.

8. The fun begins:

• Rear Wheels:

• Add tension to drive side, 1/2 turn at a time, to about 75% of optimum.
• Equalize drive side spoke tension.
• Check and correct lateral and radial trueness.
• Bring drive side tension to about 90% of optimum, 1/2 turn at a time.
• Add tension to left side spokes, 1/2 turn at a time, to about 75% of optimum.
• Equalize left side spoke tension.
• Check and correct lateral and radial trueness.
• Bring both sides to optimal tension. Final dishing.
• Final truing.

• Front wheels:

• Add tension to right and left side spokes, 1/2 turn at a time, to about 60% of optimum.
• Equalize right side spoke tension, then left side spoke tension.
• Check and correct lateral and radial trueness and dish.
• Bring both sides to optimal tension.
• Final truing.

9. Data Entry. I keep control sheets for every wheel I build to use for reference. Tension of every spoke is checked and recorded. Average tension is calculated. I strive for relative tension values within a 5–10% range.